10.15.2014

Fall Migration


After an incredibly hot summer, it finally feels as though autumn is settling in for Leavenworth and Index. And one of the traditions of many climbers is to head south in the fall. I am no exception, and generally try and make my way to the desert, or at the very least to central Oregon's destination climbing areas. I spent last weekend teaching a clinic at the American Alpine Club Craggin' Classic event at Smith Rock State Park, and got to climb at Trout Creek and at Smith.


Max on the FA

A big thumbs-up to Max "Crusher" Tepfer, who sent the newest local testpiece and established one of Oregon's hardest crack climbs with his FA of "The Compleat Angler" at Trout Creek. I showed up just in time to hold the rope for his redpoint.

Max then graciously spent that afternoon belaying me on another area open project, which I hope to
return to this fall.







It's officially a route! The hallowed crag-copy of the guidebook gets an update.














In Smith, I climbed a bit with Steven Swenson, and snapped some semi-decent photos of him flashing "Moons of Pluto" on the shady back side of the main area.












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